Who cast that first fateful tomato that started the La Tomatina revolution? The reality is no one knows. Maybe it was an anti-Franco rebellion, or a carnival that got out of hand. According to the most popular version of the story, during the 1945 festival of Los Gigantes (a giant paper mâché puppet parade), locals were looking to stage a brawl to get some attention. They happened upon a vegetable cart nearby and started hurling ripe tomatoes. Innocent onlookers got involved until the scene escalated into a massive melee of flying fruit. The instigators had to repay the tomato vendors, but that didn't stop the recurrence of more tomato fights—and the birth of a new tradition.
Fearful of an unruly escalation, authorities enacted, relaxed, and then reinstated a series of bans in the 1950s. In 1951, locals who defied the law were imprisoned until public outcry called for their release. The most famous effrontery to the tomato bans happened in 1957 when proponents held a mock tomato funeral complete with a coffin and procession. After 1957, the local government decided to roll with the punches, set a few rules in place, and embraced the wacky tradition.
Though the tomatoes take center stage, a week of festivities lead up to the final showdown. It's a celebration of Buñol's patron saints, the Virgin Mary and St. Louis Bertrand, with street parades, music, and fireworks in joyous Spanish fashion. To build up your strength for the impending brawl, an epic paella is served on the eve of the battle, showcasing an iconic Valencian dish of rice, seafood, saffron, and olive oil.
Today, this unfettered festival has some measure of order. Organizers have gone so far as to cultivate a special variety of unpalatable tomatoes just for the annual event. Festivities kick off around 10 a.m. when participants race to grab a ham fixed atop a greasy pole. Onlookers hose the scramblers with water while singing and dancing in the streets. When the church bell strikes noon, trucks packed with tomatoes roll into town, while chants of "To-ma-te, to-ma-te!" reach a crescendo.
Then, with the firing of a water cannon, the main event begins. That's the green light for crushing and launching tomatoes in all-out attacks against fellow participants. Long distance tomato lobbers, point-blank assassins, and medium range hook shots. Whatever your technique, by the time it's over, you will look (and feel) quite different. Nearly an hour later, tomato-soaked bombers are left to play in a sea of squishy street salsa with little left resembling a tomato to be found. A second cannon shot signals the end of the battle. | Ko hitnu taj prvi sudbonosni paradajz koji je započeo revoluciju La Tomatina? Zapravo, niko i ne zna. Možda je to bila pobuna protiv Frankovog režima, a možda i karneval koji se oteo kontroli. Prema najpopularnijoj verziji priče, tokom festivala Džinova (Los Gigantes) 1945. godine, koji je u stvari parada ogromnih lutaka od papir-mašea, lokalci su nameravali da započnu kavgu kako bi privukli pažnju. Nabasali su na obližnja kolica sa povrćem i počeli da bacaju svež paradajz. Nedužni posmatrači su se postepeno pridruživali sve dok se cela situacija nije pretvorila u ogromnu borbu voćnim projektilima. Inicijatori su morali da plate štetu prodavcima paradajza, ali to nije sprečilo ponavljanje bitaka paradajzom, ni rađanje nove tradicije. U strahu od većeg bunta, vlasti su pedesetih godina donele, ublažile, te obnovile seriju zabrana. Godine 1951. lokalci koji su se oglušili o zakon bili su zatvoreni, ali i pušteni na slobodu zbog negodovanja javnosti. Najpoznatije izrugivanje zabranama paradajza odigralo se 1957. godine kada su protivnici zabrana održali tobožnju sahranu paradajza sa sve kovčegom i pogrebnom povorkom. Nakon 1957. godine lokalna vlast odlučila je da prihvati kritiku, postavila je nekoliko pravila, i oberučke prihvatila luckastu tradiciju. Iako paradajz igra najveću ulogu, nedelju dana svečanosti vodi ka konačnom okršaju. To je proslava svetaca zaštitnika grada Bunjola, Device Marije i Sv. Luja Bertranda, kada se na ulicama održavaju parade, svira muzika i pali vatromet u razdraganom španskom duhu. Kako bi se učesnici osnažili za nastupajuću gužvu, veče pred bitku se servira ogromna paelja, pravi primer tipičnog Valensijskog jela od pirinča, morskih plodova, šafrana i maslinovog ulja. Ovaj nesputani festival danas ima neki vid reda. Organizatori su čak otišli toliko daleko da su kultivisali posebnu sortu nejestivog paradajza samo za ovaj godišnji događaj. Slavlje započinje oko 10 sati prepodne, kada se učesnici utrkuju ne bi li dohvatili šunku postavljenu na vrh masne pritke. Posmatrači ih pritom prskaju vodom dok pevaju i plešu po ulicama. Kada crkveno zvono objavi podne kamioni puni paradajza pristižu u grad dok ritmički napev "to-ma-te, to-ma-te!" dostiže krešendo. Potom, uz mlaz iz vodenog topa, počinje i glavni događaj. To je zeleno svetlo za smrskavanje i hitanje paradajza u sveopštem napadu na ostale učesnike. Izbačaj na daljinu, atentat izbliza, horog sa srednjim dometom: kakva god da vam je tehnika, do kraja ćete izgledati (i osećati se) sasvim drugačije. Skoro sat vremena kasnije, bombašima namočenim paradajzom ostaje da se igraju u moru gnjecave ulične salse jer skoro ničeg nalik paradajzu nema na vidiku. Drugi mlaz vodenog topa označava kraj bitke. |